This post is going to be a little long, because its about my 1.5 weeks vacation. Its not my usual post about something musical, although it has music in it.
I went up to the north country, with 2 days in Windermere in the Lakes District and Gretna, up to Scotland for a Trafalgar Tour, then another 2 days in York, before returning to London. In overview the countryside is spectacular, especially the Scottish Highlands. So this is what I got up to…
I had to rise at 6am to get to the trains at Euston station. I wasn’t feeling so great due to being a night owl of late. My mind and body didn’t want to get back to being awake during the day and sleeping at night. 2 coffees later, I managed to climb into the train and make it to Windermere. I had to change trains at Preston, which I did ‘zombie-like’, pulling my suitcase up the stairs, across the bridge, then down the other side.
I arrived at Windermere, feeling a little worried being suddenly without public transport, then remembering the iPhone maps (that’s how sleepy I was), and walked to my accommodation for 2 nights, Green Gables Guest House. I was welcomed by a gent with a gleeful smile. He was up for a yarn, and asked questions about my doings in London. At this time, Australia was deciding on a new Prime Minister, so discussed that. The goings on of politics, religion and cultural importance…I’m up for it.
Once I’d settled into my room, I needed to take a breath, so went and found yet another coffee, and had a wander through the town (or village…I can’t really tell the difference between the two) and came back to the Guest House. My room was a single room with its on ensuite. I also had the front window at ground level, so I could see everything on the street. It rained on and off. I had to buy a proper raincoat, as I destroyed my plastic-bag poncho with the zipper of my bag. The guest caretaker that it’s normal apparel for folk in these areas, so I didn’t look quite like the tourist.
Windemere is quite a picturesque town, with its village-like quirks. I’d call it ‘dinky’ or cute. It is also the home for the Beatrix Potter exhibit (author of Peter Rabbit and stories). She is a much loved lady of the lakes. Helping to preserve the country-side from industrial and urban development.
I visited the small lakeside harbour of ‘Bowness’ on Windemere Lake. What a beautiful location. I had a conversation with a few swans who thought they were going to get a feed. They were so close that I though one was going to have a go at my pockets. Stand my ground….No food!
I made a visit to ‘Hill Top’ farm. Her country home until she got married to the village barrister. It is still a working farm (sheep). The house itself has been preserved in its state that Beatrix left it. So it’s like walking into a time warp. China, doilies, old-school fireplaces. Its very homely. The countryside is absolutely stunning. I can definitely see why she preferred the countryside to London, and why she eventually moved there permanently. I bought a ‘Peter Rabbit’ and a book about her life. I’ve always like the movie that was done about her (‘Miss Potter’).
Time came for me to board another train. Unfortunately, there were rail strikes happening and some trains had been either re-scheduled or cancelled altogether. I had to catch a bus (which was supplied) for the first leg of the journey, then hop a train to Gretna Green. I walked 10 mins to my next stay at Surrone House.
So Gretna Green is famed for elopers, because it’s in Scotland, just over the border in fact. Nowadays, it’s a wedding location, and is particularly busy during the spring and summer. Went to the Blacksmiths Workshop. At the time, there was a wedding going on but they let us through the museum so we could see the ceremony happening over the Smiths Anvil (its apparently lucky). I also discovered a really nice ‘ladies’ whiskey. Bruadar…whiskey with honey and sloe added in. I don’t know if I’ll be able to get it in Australia (sad face).
So Surrone House… a double bed with my own ensuite again…very comfy. I haven’t been in a double bed since leaving Australia, I loved that my feet didn’t dangle over the end, and that I could stretch out without falling out of bed. The caretakers were extremely nice. I talked to them about my goings on (it’s as if they don’t get a lot of ‘Australians-living-in-London’ through the area). They were kind enough to offer me a ride to Carlisle (on the English side of the border) to catch my next train to Edinburgh, as it was pouring down rain. I would have had to walk through it with a big suitcase and backpack on…they didn’t have to, but they took pity on me. Many thanks to them.
So I arrived in Edinburgh, it was still raining, with the sun trying to break through. I made my way to the Novotel and checked into my room. I met my roomie, Selina from Las Vegas, US. The hotel staff thought we knew each other, not considering that we were just two women travelling on our own, but ready for an adventure, or two. That night, we had a meet-and-greet event for the tour group that we were travelling with. I group of predominantly Americans, with a few Canadians and Aussies added to the mix. We were lucky that our tour director (Malcolm) and coach driver (Grant) were Scots (apparently other tours are not so lucky to have the local knowledge). Grant told me a story that he can drive a coach better than a small car. He like to turn using a wide berth…lol. He definitely has ‘getting a huge couch through the smallest of spaces’ down to an artform.
Supper was at a medical school library. It was a bit creepy eating in a room that is lined with books about ‘Colonoscopy’, ‘The Management of Heart Disease’ and ‘Pathologies of Breast Cancer’…
The next day, we had a city tour, seeing the sights including the Palace of Holyroodhouse (royal residence) and the statue of the ‘loyal dog’. After a group photo, we went to Edinburgh castle. They were just starting pack-up the staging and seating for the annual Tattoo (finished the night before). There was a lot of fireworks being set up for that night though. We got to watch them being launched into the night sky on our way back to the hotel.
That night we went to ‘A taste of Scotland’ show. Dinner was served, followed by entertainment of Scottish singing, dancing and instrument playing. Bagpipes, accordion fiddle… great night.
The next day we went to the birthplace of golf, St Andrews. It is also the location were William and Kate (Now Duke and Duchess of Cambridge) met for coffee during their courting. I never been one for golf. I don’t understand how hitting a little white ball with a long stick is relaxing…especially if you cant hit the darn ball in the first place. I bought some tartan wool scarfs instead of golf balls.
I also got to go to Rosslyn Chapel. Fans of ‘The DaVinci Code’ will know what this place means to the Christian faith. It is the chapel of the St Claire family, who is thought to be direct descendants of Jesus. It was quite a beautiful chapel. I did find one thing that was overlooked by most people… a cat asleep in the pews. His name is William, I sat there petting him for about 10 minutes, he didn’t seem to mind…in fact I was a little worried that he wasn’t alive. Don’t worry, he was. Just ignorant of the people waking around him. I bought a stuffed toy cat from the store. What can I say?…I love cats.
We were slowly making our way into the Scottish Highlands. Those hills and mountains with running streams and waterfalls. The movies do not exaggerate this scenery. I loved it.
We stayed at the Laggan Gaskmore Hotel (for 2 nights). It was really isolated with a small village nearby. Internet was only available in the main living areas of the Hotel. I didn’t really mind being disconnected from the world. I don’t think my iPad or iPhone have been more silent for the two nights that I was there. The living areas were so comfy. If we didn’t have anything to do during the day, I would have been quite content to sit by the fireplace with a book and whiskey for the whole day. Just peace and quiet, and the beauty of the landscape that we found ourselves in. I got to know a few more people better during this time; Christine, Kitty and Marta from the US; Grant, Margaret, Jamie, Nadine and Jenny from Australia; and a couple from Canada. We chatted about ourselves by the campfire whilst having a whiskey (or two…ok, three or four) before bed. More mischief in a larger group, right? They were very interested in my musical doings in London. Really confused the Aussies when I said that I’m from London, yet still showing my Aussie accent…required some explaining.
We went to Blair Castle, huge-ass castle fully decked out in furniture and artefacts of the time, including the biggest collection of weaponry and china sets I’ve seen. So they were either ready for a huge tea party, or a war…maybe both. Every hour, a piper would come out and play; rain, snow or shine.
The tour then traced the steps of ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie’ and the Jacobite rising (Outlander fans rejoice). We stopped off at Glenfinnan, where the monument of the rising is situated. It is also the location of the railway bridge that is often seen in the Harry Potter films, and the landscape that is used often in TV and film (Outlander, Braveheart).
We then travelled over to the Isle of Skye. Just like the folk song, we travelled over the sea to Skye, we used a transport barge instead of a paddle boat though. We boarded the boat and watched the crew load up the vehicles. I trying to work out why the buses were positioned in such as way, then I realised that they have to keep the barge balanced (silly me). It was a bit of a windy day, and unfortunately me and boats are not on friendly terms (and I didn’t take my seasickness pills). I spent most of the trip on the top deck in the wind and rain. I’d rather be wet and cold, instead of being green and disgusting. Only 20 minute trip though. I felt better once we were back on land. We had lunch at a fishing village before crossing the ‘Bridge of Skye’ back to the mainland.
Of course, if we’re on the trail of the Jacobites, it was going to lead us to Culloden. This place is classified as a war cemetery and has been preserved as such. They had flags marking out the Scots and the British forces, memorial stones for the clans that fell (Clan Fraser was there). I had questions about why this battle was such a big deal. This battle and its loss, essentially ended the Highland way of life, wearing of tartan (unless you were in the armed forces) and forbidden to play the pipes (though I’m sure a few rebels would have played still). It also ended any Scottish claim to the British throne, with Charles fleeing to the north and eventually to the continent. William of Orange remained on the throne. I’ve been catching up on my royal and dynastic houses of Britain in the two years I’ve been in the UK. Viewers of ‘Outlander’ will have some idea about what happened at Culloden, a few fictional aspects added of course.
Talking about ‘Outlander’, we went to the place that inspired the location of ‘Craig na dun’. It is the standing stones outside Inverness, ‘Balnuaran of Clava’. I touched the largest standing stone, just in case I time-travelled and found a hunky highlander on the otherside… no such luck. Ha!
We made a visit past Eilean Donan Castle, the most photographed castle in Scotland. Its been used in movies such as ‘Entrapment’, ‘Elizabeth’… google it. Very long list. It I still a working castle with a household in residents, so we didn’t go in. Very picturesque with the surrounding area.
Loch Ness. Didn’t find Nessie (sad face).
We then began travelling out of the Highlands via Glencoe. Movie goers would know this place as the location of ‘Skyfall’. Our tour director in his humour even played the theme song of the movie as we travelled along the winding road. There were waterfalls coming down the side of the mountains, and even pulled up to take some pictures of streams and the green fields. We got to see Ben Nevis mountain (highest point on the UK island).
Next stop was Loch Lomand. The largest inland body of water in Scotland. Also home to the legend of Rob Roy (there was movie made of Rob Roy, starring Liam Neeson). Even had the cave that he hid in marked out. It’s a bit hard to miss when the word ‘CAVE’ is etched in the stone next to it. I thought that was funny. I liked the small villages that dotted the waters edge
We were nearing the end of tour together, arriving in Glasgow. Had a quick drive around the city stopping at the ‘Commonwealth Fountain’, which is the largest working terracotta fountain in existence. Glasgow is in a bit of a resurgence, moving from an industrial city to a more broad base entrepreneurial city. They even copied the ‘Sydney Opera House’. They squished it down, and nicknamed it the ‘Armadillo’. Love it. We checked into the Crown Plaza Hotel for the next two nights…there was a bar there, and considering most of us had developed our taste for whiskey, that became our nightcap location. We had dinner at the Corinthian Club, which has some stunning architecture on the inside and outside.
Stirling castle has the most beautiful views, but then it is on the high ground looking down on the town of Stirling and surrounding farmland. We heard stories of Rob Roy, Mary of Scots and William Wallace (or Mel Gibson in ‘Braveheart’).
Glengoyne whiskey brewery… I may have gotten a new alcohol to like. I learned how the make it, and keep it. Even saw the giant customs lock on the special area, where they keep the duty-free whiskey. I may have left the brewery a little more tipsy then when I went in. Made friends with ‘Scotty’, the brewery tour guy.
Bannockburn battle field. A little added bonus that our knowledgable tour director added in. Bannockburn was were the Scots charged the English, and won their right to be an independent state (the end of ‘Braveheart’ explains this better). There is a monument to ‘Robert the Bruce‘ and a large flagpole flying the Scottish flag (the white cross on blue field).
For our farewell dinner, we went to Ledard Farm. A working Scottish farm next to a lock (or lake). The farm has a history of famous figures making appearances in the feasting hall, notably Rob Roy. It is run by a father/son team who also play and sing professionally. We were greeted at the gate by both, one of who was playing the pipes in full Scottish regalia as we entered. We ate, and sang together. I got nominated to conduct my side of the hall in a group sing-song (don’t know why…lol). I had (at this point) consumed two glasses of wine, so I think I made a real hash of it. I won a bottle of whiskey….the worlds smallest bottle of whiskey (its listed in the Guinness Book of Records). We had a fun night together.
We got back to the hotel and began to say our farewells, swapping Facebook and emails. Chatted to the tour Malcolm and Grant, and thanked them. It would be me, if I didn’t leave an impression, right? Shared whiskey and wine with folk, then went to bed. I felt sorry for the few that had to get up at 2am to get the airport (I’d fire the travel agents). I got up at 7am, and said goodbye to Selina (room mate). I travelled to the train station and headed to York.
I stayed at the Crescent Guest House, which was pretty central to what I wanted to see in the old city. I got a bedroom and ensuite on the top floor (converted loft). I could stick my head out of the rooftop window. lol. I got in around lunchtime, and needed a nap. I went out and found a pub meal. I needed chill time to wind down from travelling.
The next day, I went for a walk around the area, and find what I could find. I found ‘The Chocolate Story’, how could I resist such an enticement? The attraction gave information about how chocolate came to be, and how it ended up in York (Cadbury and Nestle companies got their starts in York). We got to sample the chocolate bean in its various stages of processing. At the end we got to make our own confectionary, and then watch chocolatiers making confectionary for the store downstairs. I stayed for another half hour with another woman from Scandinavia and chatted to the two guys who were making chocolate.
The next place I went was ‘The Shambles’, inspiration for ‘Diagon Alley’ in Harry Potter, in fact there were three Harry Potter stores there, including a store called ‘The Store that shall no be named’…not kidding. There were also a lot cute stores in the shambles. It was kind of a tie-warp, with the cobble stone streets.
York Minster, the local cathedral. A must-see for all travellers. I kept to my tradition of lighting candle and giving thanks (as I do in churches and chapels I visit), then at the behest of my parents, I climbed the tower. I was alright going up, but freaked out on the way down. Need a time out in the pews, where I chatted to a priest that was walking around. Thought I looked troubled…I’m not troubled, just in the throws of a panic attack. The stairs were very narrow, I got vertigo looking down. Anyway, I took some pics at the top as evidence that I made it to the top.
Time came for me to return to London. Ironically, it started to pour down rain. I don’t know if someone was telling me that I should go home, or sad that my holiday was at its end.
In review
- Souvenirs: Stuffed cat and rabbit, whiskey samples, and ‘Outlander’ inspired ring, a load of fabric patches and pin badges to put on my blanket.
- I’ve gained some new friends and contacts. We got very close and had lots of fun times together.
- I saw some of the most spectacular natural scenery. I love the natural waterfalls that seem to come out of the hills and by the road.
- About 850 photos and videos
- FAVOURITE LOCATION: The Laggan Gaskmore Hotel in the Highlands. I would happily go back there for a timeout.
Well, back to real life…. until next time 🙂
Sarah Talbot 
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